1/ Painting Adirondack Chairs
2/ Caring for Cedar Adirondack chairs - unstained
3/ Finishes: Treated Adirondack chairs
4/ Adirondack chairs: before you buy
1/ Painting Adirondack Chairs
The painted Adirondack chairs look great and the paint can last 1 to 5 years before needing to be repainted IF proper steps were taken to apply a professional finish. Although painted Adirondack chairs look lovely the first year or two we don't actually recommend paints because it cannot breath with the wood and will eventually peel and bubble creating hours of labor removing the paint down the road. If you don't mind the intense labour involved in scraping and sanding before you can refinish the chairs - then painting may be a viable option for you.
When shopping for paint for your Adirondack chairs, be sure to find something with a high UV rating - this is equivalent to sun screen for your patio furniture - the higher the number the longer the color will last (provided the quality of paint is good). To minimize future labor you really do want to buy a good quality outdoor paint, the cheep ones will peel off usually in the very first year they are done.
Afin de peindre votre chaise veuillez suivre les conseils suivants :
Lorsque vous achetez la peinture pour votre chaise Adirondack, choisissez une peinture résistante aux UV. C'est un véritable écran solaire pour vos meubles de jardin. Plus l'écran anti UV sera élevé, plus la peinture résistera (à condition que la peinture soit de qualité supérieure).
Here are the basic instructions for painting your Adirondack chairs :
Just keep in mind that these are general rules but may not apply to the specific brand of paint you buy. Always read the labels and follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions for the best finish.
- Partially disassemble your Adirondack chairs. You don't have to take the back slats or seat slats off - you simply want to have each piece accessible for painting and it is near to impossible to paint up and under the chairs while they are fully assembled).
- Make sure all pieces are all clean and dust free (if there are any scratches, lightly sand them smooth then clean off all dust before painting).
- You can apply the paint by either brush or sprayer, just keep in mind that sprayers will create over spray which on a windy day could end up painting your neighbor’s house/car/etc.
- If using a brush apply a liberal coat of paint, then check for drips making sure they are wiped away before they dry. Do only one section at a time.
- Once completely dry sand lightly (with extra fine sandpaper; such as 320 grit) and apply a thin second coat. (Again don't forget to check for drips since they detract from the beauty of a finished product).
You can leave it with 2 coats or add a 3rd and 4th depending on how heavy a finish you want on the product. The sanding between coats is what allows the paint to adhere to the previous coat of paint, but it also provides an exceptionally smooth surface which creates a nice shine if you went with a gloss or semi gloss paint.
Please note that the paint build up between the seat and the seat front frame may increase the tightness when trying to reassemble the adirondack chairs. Be sure to completely dismantle the front legs, then attach the legs individually to the seat screwing in the bottom foot plate only after the legs are attached to the seat.
If you have any questions or need additional assistance please don't hesitate to call us in France on, +334.75.26.68.05 or by email to: contact@chaise-adirondack.com. Don't forget to email us your pictures! We love sharing photos of our happy customers enjoying their Adirondack chairs, swings and patio furniture.
2/ Caring for Cedar Adirondack chairs - unstained
Our handmade Adirondack chairs and outdoor furniture are made with clear western red cedar and thus can be left unstained without loosing its strength or longevity. Western red cedar has been specificially chosen for our products because it holds up so well outdoors even in the harshest weather conditions.
Wood grain: Over a long period of time if these cedar Adirondack chairs are left unstained the wood will begin to dry out - as the wood dries the grain begins to lift up - to keep the Adirondack chair wood smooth simply sand it as needed. Or you can leave the wood as is if you prefer the more rustic aged wood look.
Wood color: If you leave your Adirondack chairs unstained they will eventually the cedar will fade to a soft silver color (the grey/silver color of drift wood). If you do not want these Adirondack chairs to turn grey but want to maintain the natural color of the cedar you will have to put a finish on it that has a high UV protection rating since it is the sun that fades the cedar to silver. Please note that all finishes will change the color of the cedar to some degree (usually giving it a more golden appearance).
When it comes to finishes for your Adirondack chairs you have a few options;
Leave it unstained to weather to silver grey or apply one of the following:
Stain, Paint,
Water sealer,
Lacquer,
Marine Varnish,
Wax,
Linseed Oil.
Just keep in mind that not all finishes are created equally - some really don't hold up well in outdoor weather, others are not well suited to cedar Adirondack chairs. Be sure to see our other articles on the on these different options.
3/ Finishes: Treated Adirondack chairs
Our treated Adirondack chairs and swings are stained with 4 coats of Cetol 1 by Sikkens (be sure to see our treatment page for details regarding our unique treatment process). These products come finished and ready to enjoy for many years of maintenance free pleasure. However like with all things eventually they will require your attention to remain as attractive as when you buy them.
Here is the information you need regarding your treated products:
You have two options for keeping your products looking good. You can either apply an easy fresh coat each spring to keep it new looking year round or you can wait till your finish begins to fade and refinish it completely (a longer process). Here is how:
Option 1 – Touch up each spring
Keeping your Adirondack chairs looking brand new is easy - it just requires a simple annual upkeep but the good news is the labor is minimal.
Just get a small amount of the Cetol 1 by Sikkens (either 078 for light/golden stained products or 045 for the dark/mahogany stained products). You can find a local store that sells this stain by entering your zip code on the Sikkens website http://www.nam.sikkens.com/find-a-dealer.cfm
Look over your Adirondack chairs & outdoor furniture for scratches and if necessary sand these area's lightly if you want a smooth wood finish or leave as is for that distressed wood antique look. Clean your Adirondack chairs off to remove dust and dirt and let dry completely before applying stain. Once the chairs are ready to stain dip a cloth in the Cetol 1 by Sikkens and wipe down your products.
You don't have to worry about getting it absolutely perfect because you are not actually staining the products you are only refreshing the finish to keep it new looking. If there are areas that are lighter you can wipe them down again after that first coat has dried. It only takes a few minutes to touch up our treated products each spring and it assures you a longer lasting finish that stays looking new.
Option 2 – Treating your Adirondack chairs & outdoor furniture after a few years
If you wait a few years to treat your Adirondack chairs you will have a bit more work to do to get that beautiful finish. Before treating your Adirondack chairs or outdoor products be sure to read the labels so you know the safety required to keep you safe and healthy. Never stain products indoors, only in well ventilated areas. Never store soiled fabric that has stain on them in a pile (they can potentially be a fire hazard). In other words, read the safety rules, follow the instructions on the labels, and use good old fashioned common sense. This should be a fun project where you get to show off your skills by the beauty of your completed project.
You can either purchase the same stain we use Cetol 1 by Sikkens (either 078 for light/golden stained products or 045 for the dark/mahogany stained products). You can find a local store that sells this stain by entering your zip code on the Sikkens website http://www.nam.sikkens.com/find-a-dealer.cfm or you can use a similar oil based stain (be sure to compare UV ratings as not all stains provide that protection).
Here are the typical steps to take in staining.
- Sand away any flaws, dents, and smooth over any rough spots.
- Clean away any dust or dirt and make sure the Adirondack chairs or outdoor furniture is completely dry before staining.
- Using Cetol 1 by Sikkens (or a comparable outdoor oil based stain) and a brush or sponge applicator go over each piece lightly.
- Check for drips and smooth them over before the stain dries.
- Let your Adirondack chairs dry completely (usually 24 hours) in a dry well ventilated place. (NOT IN YOUR HOME - breathing fumes can be dangerous).
- Lightly sand with a 220 grit sandpaper and be sure to clean off all dust.
- Apply the second coat the same way as the first coat (this second coat is lighter). Be sure to check for drips and wipe them off if necessary.
- Let your Adirondack chairs dry completely (usually 24-48 hours) in a dry well ventilated place (again not in your home).
- Lightly sand this time with a 320 grit sandpaper and be sure to clean off all dust.
- Apply the third coat the same way as the first two (keep this coat light). Again be sure to wipe off all drips and check shortly thereafter for more drips.
- Let product dry completely (usually 24-48 hours) in a dry well ventilated place.
If the Adirondack chairs do not have a heavy enough finish for your liking you can repeat the last step for an additional 1 or 2 coats as necessary.
Three coats of Cetol 1 by Sikkens usually last about 1 - 3 years in direct sunlight, the 4th coat can last 2 to 5 years in direct sunlight. Just dont go too heavy on the coats or the stain will pool on the surface and act like a film instead of a stain. The wood needs to be able to breath if the finish is going to last.
One last note - when we treat the products we use an immersion technique for that first coat where each piece is dipped in a 50 gallon vat of the Cetol 1 by Sikkens (which is equivalent to 3 coats) and then we spray on an additional 3 coats on top of that (sanding between each coat) to get our beautiful finish.
If you need any assistance or have questions please feel free to call us at +334.75.26.68.05 or email contact@chaise-adirondack.com. We take great pride in the quality of our products and know that with proper care you can enjoy decades of use of these beautiful outdoor furniture products.
We are proud to be celebrating over 50 years in business manufacturing the Best Adirondack Chairs and outdoor cedar patio furniture on the market.
4/ Adirondack chairs: before you buy
How can you tell if you are getting value for your money?
Not all Adirondack chairs are created equally but it’s very difficult to tell quality when all you have to base your opinion on is a photo. So here are some of the things you should consider when purchasing an Adirondack chair.
When comparing Adirondack chairs here are a few things to look for:
- Leaning back: Adirondack chairs were originally designed to sit on a hill (or mountain) when placed on this sloped surface the chair actually sat level… most took this chair and put it on flat surfaces without adjusting the recline of the chair – thus the standard chair leans back too far and makes it hard to get in and out of. Make sure the back has a gentle lean – not a lounge chair lean.
- Flat backs vs Curved backs: flat backs are hard on your spine when sitting but curved (fan style) backs that are too drastically curved cause you to hunch your shoulders forward in order to lean back in the chair causing stress between the shoulder blades. The curve should be slight as the natural curve between your shoulder blades.
- Seat curve: If you see a dramatic curve in the seat odds are it’s not going to be as comfortable as a gentle curve. A dramatic curve creates steep edged angles of the slats screwed on top which dig in when you are sitting. Better a flat seat than one that is overly curved but the slight gentle curve is the most accommodating so long as the seat does not curve in too much. Too much of a curve can also cause pressure points behind the knees.
- Seat bottom: Some chairs have a wide last seat slat custom shaped to fill the gap where the back curves around the seat… that gap is actually more comfortable left unfilled than having a flat piece of wood that often digs into the tail bone because it angles upwards following the curve of the chair seat. It may look prettier but it is less comfortable and can potentially cause problems for the lower spine.
- Seat front: The front of the Adirondack Chair seat may be cut flat (behind your knees)… if so keep in mind that this edge can dig in under your knees creating pressure points that will cause your feet to fall asleep.
- Legs under the seat: The legs under the seat should have a solid brace system (either cross braces or more preferably a large board that is screwed in multiple places in order to create a solid foundation.
- Back bracing: The Back should be very well braced especially where the back meets the seat as that is the weak point in most Adirondack chairs. This is even more essential in Adirondack chairs that fold. Three back braces are stronger than two and help eliminate wiggling of the chair.
- Not all woods hold up well in all climates but if you are looking for something cheep that you will be replacing in a year or so just about any material will suffice. If however you are looking for a long term investment into a better Adirondack chair quality then you need to consider the following.
- Pine – is fine for short term but is not termite resistant and is prone to water damage, mildew and rotting. To make pine last longer be sure to put a good finish on it including a primer and high UV rating top coat. Pine can last longer than a few years but it requires regular maintenance. This is a cheep wood available anywhere and is most often used in third world made products (Malaysia, China, etc.). Watch out for pressure treated pine as the chemicals used in pressure treating can be harmful to your health.
- Teak – this is a very heavy hardwood that can last incredibly long (generations). Its density creates the heavy weight to this wood and like cedar it is naturally impervious to termites. Teak is imported and not a native wood to North America and with its heavy weight and high demand it is incredibly expensive (up to 3 times the price of products made in cedar, up to 6 times the price of products made of pine). Teak is difficult to care for as it does not take a stain well.
- Cedar – this is the best softwood for longevity as it is naturally impervious to rot and the cedar oils deter insects. Cedar is the choice wood for decks, boardwalks, and such due to its high durability and easy availability in North America as it is a native wood to our country. Marks and blemishes can be easily sanded away and cedar can last many generations. If left unfinished it will eventually turn to a soft silvery grey and in a decade small fissures will show up in the wood surface but they do not compromise the strength or life of the wood. There are many species of cedar but the longest lasting of them is western red cedar.
NOTE : A few manufacturers are now conscious of global concerns surrounding destruction of rain forests and wildlife thus use only Certified Sustainably Harvested Wood. To do your part in saving our forests be sure to ask where the manufacturer gets their wood and if it comes from a certified supplier. There are many good Adirondack chair companies that offer value for their customers. Finding the right one for you can take time and effort but can provide endless years of enjoyment if you take the time to select wisely.
WARNING : Before buying an Adirondack chair online be sure to read the fine print – returning Adirondack chairs can be very expensive if you don’t like what you get (most don’t refund you the original shipping charges and you have to pay the return freight and they often charge a restocking fee if there is nothing wrong with it). This can easily add up to 50€ or more per chair. Can you imagine paying 50€ or more to return something you don't want? Don’t put your money at risk when buying online – read the guaranty and return policy FIRST and if they don’t have one posted you can assume they will charge you.
All chairs have these same features :
All are made with CLEAR (no knots) western red cedar.
All are made with stainless steel hardware.
All have curved backs that gently curve to cradle the spine - but do not curve so much that they hunch the shoulders forward - they are just right!
All are available with a straight bottom front or with our trademark decorative scrolled front.
All are available in your choice of unstained (meaning they are beautifully sanded and ready to enjoy as is) OR treated in your choice of light golden or dark mahogany.
All are hand made to your preferences (no cookie cutter chairs from Malaysia - these are hand made IN North America just for you).
All are made with renewable resources which are good for the environment (re-growth forest grown specifically for this kind of production, NOT old forest!)
All come with a 30 day NO RISK guaranty! Meaning if you aren't happy WE PAY the return freight and refund you IN FULL! No other company offers this kind of return policy.
All come with a 10 year guaranty on workmanship - if anything ever breaks we will replace the broken piece FREE of charge - see guaranty for details.
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